The Soul of Latgalian Cooking

Latgalian cuisine is honest, filling, and deeply connected to the land. Rooted in centuries of rural life, it reflects the agricultural rhythms of eastern Latvia — hearty dishes designed to sustain farmers through cold winters and long working days. Today, these traditions are lovingly preserved in home kitchens, local restaurants, and seasonal festivals across Rēzekne and the wider Latgale region.

If you've come to Rēzekne and want to understand the place through its food, you've come to the right guide.

Must-Try Traditional Dishes

Grey Peas with Bacon (Pelēkie zirņi ar speķi)

The undisputed icon of Latvian — and especially Latgalian — cooking. Dried grey peas are soaked overnight and then cooked until tender, served alongside generous amounts of fried smoked bacon and sautéed onions. Simple, filling, and deeply satisfying. This dish is traditionally eaten at Midsummer and winter celebrations, but you'll find it year-round in Rēzekne's traditional eateries.

Skābputra

A fermented oat porridge that sounds unusual to outsiders but is a genuine comfort food for Latgalians. Made from oats soaked in water until lightly soured, then cooked and often served with butter, sour cream, or milk. It has a mild tangy flavour and a warming quality that makes it perfect for cold mornings. Skābputra is most commonly found in rural homes and at folk festivals.

Kotletes (Meat Patties)

A staple of everyday Latvian cooking, these minced meat patties — typically made from pork, beef, or a mixture — are pan-fried and served with boiled potatoes, sauerkraut, or pickled vegetables. Every cook has their own recipe, and the variations are endless. You'll find excellent kotletes at Rēzekne's canteen-style lunch spots and in the city market's food section.

Sklandrausis

This rye pastry filled with a sweet carrot or potato filling is a protected regional specialty of Latgale and the surrounding areas. Sklandrausis has EU Protected Geographical Indication status, meaning authentic versions can only be made in the traditional area. The filling is spiced with caraway and sweetened, creating a distinctive flavour unlike anything else in Baltic cooking. Look for it at markets and bakeries.

Rupjmaize (Dark Rye Bread)

No Latvian meal is complete without rye bread, and in Latgale the tradition is particularly strong. Dense, dark, slightly sweet and wonderfully sour, rupjmaize is baked fresh and sold by the loaf. Eaten with butter and a slice of cheese or simply on its own, it is the backbone of the Latgalian diet.

What to Drink

  • Kvass: A fermented rye bread drink, slightly fizzy and mildly alcoholic. Refreshing and traditional.
  • Birch sap (bērzu sula): Collected in spring, this delicately sweet natural drink is a seasonal treat.
  • Local beers: Several small breweries operate in the Latgale region, producing craft and traditional-style beers.
  • Herbal teas: Gathered from meadows and forests, herbal blends are popular in the Latgalian countryside.

Where to Eat in Rēzekne

Rēzekne's dining scene is unpretentious and value-driven. You'll find the best traditional food in:

  • The central market: Hot food stalls serve fresh, home-cooked lunches at very reasonable prices.
  • Local café-restaurants: Several establishments along and near Atbrīvošanas aleja offer traditional Latvian lunch menus.
  • Seasonal festivals and fairs: The best opportunity to try authentic Latgalian specialties prepared by local producers and home cooks.

A Note on Seasonal Eating

Latgalian food culture is deeply seasonal. Summer brings fresh berries, mushrooms from the forest, and garden vegetables. Autumn is for preserving — jams, pickles, and fermented products fill larders. Winter cooking relies on stored root vegetables, dried legumes, and preserved meats. Spring is welcomed with fresh dairy and the first greens. Eating in tune with the seasons is not a trend here — it is simply how things have always been done.